Artisans on the runway: from handmade to haute couture

This article explores how India’s rich artisanal heritage is both celebrated and threatened on the global fashion stage. It looks at rising homegrown talent, the problem of cultural appropriation by Western brands, and why stronger legal protections and credit-sharing are vital to safeguard the livelihoods of millions of artisans.

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Fashion—often hailed as the vanguard of luxury and creative self-expression—uses time-honoured crafts and practices handed down by generations of artisans who weave culture into couture seamlessly, creating narrative-rich statements that not only showcase skilful execution but also the layered heritage behind it.

This legacy of narrative craftsmanship found its way to Milan’s runway when Prada rebranded India’s indigenously designed Kolhapuris as “flat leather sandals” at its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show, triggering instant backlash. Everyone from netizens to industry insiders called out the luxury giant for appropriating the centuries-old craft for profit without crediting its origins. The Maharashtrian government threatened legal action, bringing to light the exploitative nature of the global fashion industry that continues to profit from borrowed culture, despite growing calls for transparency and fair royalty-sharing with artisans.

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