An Immigrant’s Table in New York: Chef Vijay Kumar — “Food is not just survival, it’s love.”

At Semma, New York’s Michelin-starred temple to Tamil food, Chef Vijay Kumar has turned memories of his village in Tamil

Culinary Spotlight, 2025 | The James Beard Awards recognise outstanding achievements in the culinary world. In 2025, Chef Vijay Kumar of Semma, New York, is honoured as Best Chef: New York State. | Image Courtesy: Jeff Schear

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At Semma in New York’s Greenwich Village, the wait for a table has become part of its legend. Reservations vanish months ahead as diners chase food that is fiery, grounded, and unapologetically Tamil.

When I mention I ate at Semma in 2022, Chef Vijay’s face lights up. “Oh my God, you’ve been? That makes it easier, I don’t have to explain so much!” he laughs. People often ask if foreigners can handle the spice. I just tell them, come, and try for yourself.”

The constant complaint, he admits, is reservations. “All I can say is sorry and thank you. We’re grateful.”

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